The visit of the Polish journalist Tomasz Prange-Barczynski
Guest of the Strada del Barolo e Grandi Vini di Langa, he visited several producers
"Magazyn Wino", which is turning 10, is a prestigious magazine on wine as well as the only publication of the wine sector in Poland.
The cofounder and editor of "Magazyn Wino" is Tomasz Prange-Barczynski, journalist and passionate wine expert. Tomasz has been a guest of Strada del Barolo e grandi Vini di Langa for several days, visiting different producers.
Tomasz what are your impressions on this trip in Langa?
Excellent. I have discovered several new producers. Some of them are small but with great quality wines, true expression of the territory and honest prices. These wines are increasingly worth knowing about. I am thinking of Barolo, the perfect expression of Serralunga d’Alba or La Morra, but also of Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, that I have discovered and enjoyed during these travels. Dogliani, for me, could be the wine to put on the table every single day.
You have been to Langa many times, did you find any differences compared to your previous travels?
I remember my early trips in Langa in the 1990s. It was great to meet the producers, the landscape was enchanting as it is now, but I can’t certainly say that the territory was turned towards tourism. Finding nice places to sleep or eat wasn’t easy at all. Today the situation has completely changed. There are top quality farm houses, bed & breakfast, restaurants and, assuring an excellent service, there is something for every range of price. Today, it easy, nice and relaxing, for a wine lover, to move around Langa. And the result is thanks to Strada del Barolo, which, as I could see, did a lot to promote the territory and strengthen the culture of reception that today can be considered equal or superior when compared to those Italian regions with a great history of wine tourism such as Tuscany, Friuli Venezia-Giulia or Trentino Alto-Adige.
Are the Polish interested in the Langa territory?
Of course. The number of wine lovers who come to Piedmont is growing more and more when compared to those who, few years ago, chose the traditional Italian travel destinations. They appreciate the landscape, the reception and, above all, the great Piedmontese wines. Those who drink top quality wines in Poland can spend a lot: they are interested in knowing the production territory and, as per consequence, in travelling.
Let’s jump to Poland, tell us something about the market of the Polish wine?
The wine market in Poland is evolving. Today it is clear that you can drink and enjoy a whole bottle of wine per meal and feel good, no more second-rate wines but with a high alcoholic content, as was common in past years. There is room for the great top-rate wines of Piedmont but the next step will be to promote these wines.
Today, what do people drink in Poland?
The market is mainly characterized by Californian wines. This is mainly thanks to the strong promotion that the Gallo Family in particular, through the sponsorship of events that attract a wide public, have been running for several years. There is also a good consumption of Hungarian wine, reminiscent of the past’s Soviet influence on all the Eastern European countries. The Italian wine, especially the Tuscany one, follows in third place in Polish domestic consumption. So, there is a real and wide margin of expansion for the market of Piedmontese wines in Poland.
Who drinks and how do you drink wine in Poland?
Wine is starting to attract many over-30s, who were interested in beer but today are more oriented towards wine. Quality wines, because of their high price, are mainly bought by people aged over-50, who meet in the wine bars of Warsaw and Kraków, where you can find the best labels in the world. But I would like to stress again that the selling of Piedmontese wines, Barolo but I’m also thinking about Dogliani and Nebbiolo, Barbera, Nascetta, Gavi, Arneis, and all your spumanti which can acquire interesting market spaces. I think that wines like Dolcetto can help others like Nebbiolo and Barolo to be known and sold. In Poland, as in the rest of Europe, we are experiencing a Renaissance of autochthonous wines and the wine enthusiasts are abandoning the traditional international grape varieties for tastes that are the biggest expression of the great territories suited to high quality wine. But, in order to win the challenges of the international competitors, these wines have to face the market with competence and honesty. I think that Piedmont can win this match, unlike the contenders from Tuscany or the French from Burgundy and Bordeaux.
Let’s finish with an emotion…
We have just concluded an international contest with "Magazyn Wino" and, among the winners there were two Barolo Bussia Soprana Vigna Mondoca and one Grignolino d’Asti. As I have already said, I have been impressed by the quality and versatility of Dolcetto and in particular Dogliani, that has been explained to me by Anna Maria Abbona and the president of Bottega del Vino Dolcetto di Dogliani. In Serralunga d’Alba I tasted a Barolo of Anselma that I could define as educational, as well as the most authentic expression of the terroir and with an excellent price. I had the possibility to discover and appreciate the Barbera of Villa Giada during a great dinner at Ca del Lupo in Montelupo Albese. What else can I add? I love Piedmontese wine! But above all, I love these producers and their stories. I would like to end with an anecdote. In 1998, I was invited by the producers of Beaujolais because their Beaujolais Noveau was leaving for Japan for the first time. Would you believe that it was like watching parents saying goodbye to their children who were leaving alone for the holidays for the first time? Some of them were so moved that they were crying. I found these feelings again here in Piedmont and especially in Langa. Producers who adore their job in the vineyard and in the cellar, who love their bottles that they proudly open and share with visitors. Is there a bigger emotion for a wine lover?
Tomasz Prange-Barczynski is a critic, a wine expert and a journalist.
A Polish national, he is co-founder and editor of the prestigious and competent magazine "Magazyn Wino". For six years he supervised a weekly programme on Radio PIN 102FM; he has a fixed column on wine in the magazines "Playboy" and "Newsweek". He has produced a documentary for Canal Plus Poland dedicated to Beaujolais Nouveau (1998) and for Kuchinia TV (TV channel specializing in gastronomy) he has supervised 12 episodes of the series "Wine: the manual" (2009). He also took part in the writing of different episodes of the documentary on wine entitled "California in the bottle" (2010).
He is the author of books for wine professionals such as the one for Sommeliers (unfortunately available only in Polish) and has translated into Polish the books "Wines of the World" (Dorling Kindersley , 2004), "Whisky" (by Charles McLean, Dorling Kindersley, 2008) and “Le vin en 80 questions " (by Pierre Casamayor, Hachette, 2006).
He is a judge in many wine contests, among which are "Vinitaly" in Verona, "Best of Riesling" in Germany , "Bormustra" and "Vinagora" in Hungary and "Vini da Pesce" in Jesi, Italy.
